1964 Montgomery Ward Signature 513 #H4504556

Status: My Collection
Hunter: James Grooms (jgrooms)
Created: 06-18-2026 at 08:10AM
Last Edit: 06-18-2026 at 09:29AM

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Description:

The deep dive into the Brother JP-3 continues with this 13-inch model for Ward's. What I have learned along the way is that there are big changes from the earliest models. They can't settle in on how they are going to trip the escapement for starters.. So there are different links and springs involved. I think this is a key piece of the 'heavy' feel.

The first tab brake mechanism, which this one has, clearly wasn't working for them. There is at least two more versions until they settle in on one that is really good. This is what you learn when you go hunting for parts.

This one features a ribbon system that trips via something similar to a Torpedo. The entire ribbon/vibrator system will also go through at least three revisions.

This one's tab brake, which uses centrifugal metal shoes on a metal drum is useless. There is no provision to adjust the shoes for wear. The later version will use fiber brake pads. Unfortunately, all the mounting points are different, so a swap is not possible. I experimented with different types of tape in the drum to get some friction with no success, as it was all too much. I then superglued a strip of painters' tape to the shoes. After the glue set, I peeled off the tape and voila, a nice consistent build up. So now there is some drag. Longer term? It will probably wear away.

These early models have the lightest base touch. The trip is returned in a different manner.

The biggest issue, however, I believe is that things need to be absolutely clean. The U-bar pivots are in a spot where they collect tons of debris. In the same area, the ribbon vibrator comes to rest on a metal shelf. It is the perfect large flat spot to collect debris. I had one where the build up was so extensive it was a gooey mess. This created a snapping release feel on the way up. I was convinced there was a link catching somewhere. Anyway, count the pivots in the system, and you'd be hard-pressed to find anything with more moving parts to get the ribbon up. If any of it is dirty or damaged, the key tension will be increased.

See the link for moving the key link spring rack down. However, I think the first step is to loosen the rack screws and move it to the right in the slots. Why is it slotted? IMO, this is a designed provision to adjust the base tension. Moving the rack to the right reduces the preload on the springs.

Typeface Specimen:

Photos:

Slot in spring rack on each side.

Entirely different ribbon trigger.

Short and straight mount trip spring.

1st version. Complicated and not adjustable for drag.

Long side mounted spring.

3rd version with visible shoes and spring.

Long side mounted trip return spring.

Spring rack moved to the right, which reduces the length (tension) of the springs.

2nd version. I assume there are shoes in this one.

Hunter: James Grooms (jgrooms)

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Typewriters are the perfect blend of using one's technical skills, history and functional purpose. My goal is type tested machines. My interests are not isolated to any one area. For example, I am a big fan of Smith Corona electrics, mid century electrics and all things Royal.